Barbarian Days

Barbarian Days

By William Finnegan

  • Release Date : 2015-08-06
  • Genre : Biography
  • FIle Size : 4.88 MB
Score: 5.0
5.0
From 26 Ratings
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Description

Barbarian Days WINNER OF THE PULITZER PRIZE FOR BIOGRAPHY 2016

WINNER OF THE 2016 WILLIAM HILL SPORTS BOOK OF THE YEAR PRIZE

Surfing only looks like a sport. To devotees, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a mental and physical study, a passionate way of life.

William Finnegan first started surfing as a young boy in California and Hawaii. Barbarian Days is his immersive memoir of a life spent travelling the world chasing waves through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa and beyond. Finnegan describes the edgy yet enduring brotherhood forged among the swell of the surf; and recalling his own apprenticeship to the world's most famous and challenging waves, he considers the intense relationship formed between man, board and water.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, a social history, an extraordinary exploration of one man's gradual mastering of an exacting and little-understood art. It is a memoir of dangerous obsession and enchantment.

Reviews

  • Superb

    5
    By lrussell5
    Beautifully written, I have never felt so immersed in a surf themed memoir. The vivid, poetic descriptions of memorable rides and sessions are enough to make your eyes water!
  • Catch this one.

    5
    By Puppy's go go go!
    Surfer or non surfer will enjoy this autobiographical tale. A boy to man life story of surf obsession and world travel to surfing hot spots.

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